Get Yourself Wired Properly

Wanna put that slob behind the typewriter of a bike mag in a blue funk? Then just send him photos of a worthy machine that bit the dust at the last moment because of a bogus wiring job. Stringing electrics on a scoot is not difficult, but it does require a little foresight. If you keep the wring hassle in mind all the time while building the bike, it’ll turn out a lot easier in the end- for both you and the eyesore editor.

One way to keep the black spaghetti snagged around the frame to a minimum is to select components that reduce electrical connections instead of adding to them_ a Joe hunt mag will simplify things.

Another method of keeping the electrical tangle under control is this: mount parts as close to their current supply outlet as possible. For example, on Harley 74s the coil is often located to a position between the cylinders to minimize the length of plug leads. If it is legal in your state, put the high low switch for the headlight beam right in the backside of the metal body along with the indicator light, instead of running it out to the handlebars. On sportsers, the hollow top motor mount (2) makes a good central location for a small switch panel.

Finally, the remaining wires you have to live with can be sanitized on several ways. A single lead can be hidden by routing along side an oil line or cable that is already there or snuggled up to the backside of a frame tube with nylon cable ties (3).
Two or more wires can be braided (4), twisted, or pig tailed together for a neater appearance. Pig tailing (5) is especially good, because the wire coils act a spring and can absorb long term vibration without breaking. Groups of wire are often sleeved together or individually with rubber, vinyl (6), or metal tubing—or even thing like braided rawhide (7).

Some of the particularly righteous stuff to use is heat shrinkable tubing (8). It’s available from most electronics supply outlets and it reduces to half it’s original diameter when gently heated with tips from a wood burning set, or a match (9) you can for example run four frame leads into a 5/16-diameter size, pull everything straight, gently play a match flame under it and watch the whole thing pull down into a single neat snake. . Just as if it ate too much of Alice’s mushroom. If you can’t but it locally, write to the Brookstone Company in the east (13 brook stone building Peterborough’ n.h. 03458), or to the plastics center out west (186 south Alvarado st., los Angeles calf.)


Last but not least, the old dodge of running the wires through the frame is helpful, but don’t overdo it. Too many holes especially around the neck area will weaken the frame structurally; and the sharp edges the holes, unless protected by grommets (10), tend to chew away the insulation until a short occurs.

Don’t fry your wriring by using leads too small for the current load. A gauge size of 18 will be ample for most components that draw 3 amps or less (brakelight,coil,ignition) while major parts should be wired according to the above chart. Always use a large core size if in doubt, and note that the diameters given are for bare wire without insulation.

Wire Gauge	Core Size	Curret Capacity	Components
8	.172 inch	30 amps	Charging battery
10	.141 inch	20 amps	Headlights
12	.109 inch	15 amps	Horn
14	.078 inch	12 amps
16	.062 inch	6 amps	Most minor parts
18	.050 inch	4 amps

© 1982 by Jammer Cycle Products