Installing a kit is a fairly simple operation; common sense and a little mechanical ability will get all parts in the places where they belong. But there are a few things that could trip you up and keep kit from working at its top capability. Reading the following information before you start installation could save you some time and give you a better working setup when you’re through.

   Photo 1 shows the complete kit which consists of a special low friction cable, a clutch handle designed for use with the large cable, one horseshoe bracket and bolts, ten special springs, and four double-lined, high-cohesion clutch plates. The kit also includes a diagram showing the exact length to which the clutch arm must be cut and what size drills to use to redrill the end. Modifying the arm is a
no-hassle deal, and all the tools you will need are a hacksaw and a hand drill.

 

 Photo 2 shows the one sided buffer plate found in the stock Harley clutch. Do not use this plate or any of the other three stock plates with linings. You do use the three stock steel plates. (Note: On one side of these steel plates the word out is stamped on the outer edge-be sure this faces out when reinstalling the clutch in the shell.)

 

 

 

 

   Photo 3 shows the order in which the plates go back into the shell: first lined; second, steel; third, lined; fourth, steel; fifth, lined; sixth, steel; seventh, lined- for a total of four double lined plates and three steel plates. The complete pressure plate is the last piece to go on, and it should be assembled using the special springs before installing. (Note the use of the large washer to hold the pressure plate, springs, and spring plate together.)

 

 

 

Photo 4: When you have slipped the pressure plate on the three long studs, screw the nuts on so that three threads are showing. (This is just the place to start adjusting. When you have completed the installation, you have to come back to these three nuts and adjust them until your pressure plate runs without any wobble. This is done by pulling the clutch in and cranking the kick-starter – eyeball the edge of the pressure plate in relation to the clutch shell – tighten the nuts so as to make the pressure plate run true. Usually the smaller spring plate will wobble when the pressure plate is true. Don’t worry about it; the pressure plate is the one that counts.) Remove the large washer used to keep everything together and screw in the adjuster as far as it will go-then back off three turns and tighten down the lock nut. The adjustment between this point and the cable adjuster may be played with to come up with the right combination of cable slack should your trans be adjusted to the extreme front or rear, but by no means should it be screwed all the way in, because this will cause throw out bearing failure

   Photo 5 shows the horseshoe bracket properly installed under the oil tank mounting pad. Use the bolts supplied with the kit-the bolt on the left side of the bike is the smaller of the two and threads directly into a tapped hole in the bracket. The right side has a regular nut and bolt arrangement. Adjust the cable so that all the slack is out, but not to the point of applying any pressure on the clutch itself. (Go back and eyeball the pressure plate under photo 4.

Care should be taken to run the cable along a path that doesn’t put any binds or crimp in it – a little grease on the pivot of the clutch handle will make things a bit smoother too. After a few adjustments to take up the initial cable stretch, the clutch should stay in adjustment and be smoother and easier then any other hog clutch you ever tried. If you are having any problems, you should check for other, related parts problems

 

© 1982 by Jammer Cycle Products