If you want a paint job with all that flash stuff on it, then start stuffin’ your hog bank for a trip to the local custom squirter—he’s got the experience and the equipment to do a job that would be impossible to do in your basement. In the meantime, you can fight off the rusting of your frame and tank with just a spray can job. It may not be beautiful, but it’s a good way to mark time until you’ve got the green to have the flash job done

To avoid hassles with these bargain bombs, there are just a couple of rules to follow. First, make sure the can is clearly labeled on either the front or back (1) as to type (either lacquer or enamel but not both)

We have seen some examples that are woefully vague. Next, once you start with one type and brand of paint stick with it to eliminate any compatibility problems. In general, lacquer or acrylic lacquer is easier to work with because it dries faster, is less troublesome in repeated applications, and can be sanded or compounded (2) to achieve a professional- looking glassy finish. Enamels are more durable, but they take a long time to harden fully, and in the interim, they are more susceptible to lifting or wrinkling than lacquer.

Most of the time, if the spray bomb is labeled on the front, it will say either lacquer or enamel (urethanes and epoxies are a completely different animal but for our purposes they can be considered improved versions of enamel). If there is no type listed on the front of the can, but the ingredients are mentioned on the back, then it gets a little trickier. Usually one of the paint components will be identified as either "binder" or "vehicle, non volatile." This is the gizmo that tells you what the paint really is. If you see that the binder is nitrocellulose (cellulose nitrate) or acrylic ester, then you’re holding lacquer in your mitt. Almost anything else (usually alkyd resin, linseed oil, drying oils, ect.) indicates enamels. Some paint manufactures put together weird hybrids (3), so it is always best to stick with the same brand once you have started. Make sure that the line you choose includes a recommended primer for sure a compatible body putty (4) and a clear for topcoating if possible

The subject of how to use spray cans has been beaten the death, so we don’t get in to a long trip here. But if all else fails read the directions on the can (!) and don’t worry if you are painting in a cold garage is a little below usual recommended temperature of 72 degrees. You can help by keeping the cans warm in the house (but not the oven!) until you’re ready to squirt’em, and also allow plenty of time (up to twice normal) before recoating and sanding if parts are cold. Prevent slow sagging of the paint by using lighter then normal coats. You can accelerate drying with infrared lamps, but don’t overdo it.Even if you don’t give a crap about wasting your lungs, proper ventilation is important to reduce fire hazard . Paint fumes and overspray dust are highly flammable besides being unhealthy. A respirator (5) may make you look like a goddam insect, but it is a lot better to have the paint set up inside your gas tank than inside your lungs.

One last hint: after using, turn spray cans upside down and press the trigger until just air (well, propellant) is coming out (6) this cleans the paint out of the nozzle so that the can will be ready for the next hurry up job six months from now.from now.

Paint Characteristics

(This chart is intended only as general guide- individual paint characteristics and ingredients may very widely. Many so-called epoxies are only improved enamels, for example)

© 1982 by Jammer Cycle Products